Birthday with Da Vinci

After rising early in morning, I quickly prepared for the day and took the underground to the closest stop near Santa Maria delle Grazie, the church which houses Da Vinci's masterpiece.

Since I encountered numerous signs pointing in the direction of Santa Maria, I found the church very quickly.

Easy stuff!

Upon arriving, I found some very interesting information regarding the exhibition.

Only 20-30 people are allowed to be in the same room with the painting and only for only 15 minutes. In order to preserve THE LAST SUPPER, the temperature of the room is set a specific number at all times. A guide has to accompany you in and out, with absolutely no photos or videos allowed.

While waiting for my specific time to arrive, I wandered into a nearby book and music store across the street. This class establishment held quite a few unique items relating to all things Milano. I ended up getting a La Scala (homeless shelter) magnet for my Dad.

I returned to Santa Maria and found that my allotted time was quickly approaching.
 

Since I had an extra ticket that was going to be unused, I found a group of oriental travelers trying to find if anyone was willing to give up an extra ticket. They were in luck!

The entrance of the exhibition truly showcased the importance of Da Vinci's THE LAST SUPPER. There were numerous receptionists on hand responding to questions, security guards surveying the area, with travelers from all of the world gearing up to be moved into the actual exhibit.

My time was called and I soon proceeded deeper into Santa Maria delle Grazie with my group. We went through two security checkpoints which made sure no sharp or violent objects were with us.

After the security screenings, we finally entered into sacred room.

The long room was exceptionally quiet, with only two guards surveying the area.

The fresco lay to the farthest wall to our right. The first thing that surprised me was size of the piece. It's gigantic and covers the entire wall!

I was thoroughly impressed with scale of the piece, full of impeccable detail and jaw-dropping atmosphere.

Observing all the subtle gestures blown up to its actual size was fascinating. Every little positioning of the apostles represents a key characteristic of the specific depiction. You could sense the feminine strokes of John the Baptist and feel the delicacy of Christ.

Da Vinci wanted to capture one of the most striking historical moments in motion: Christ telling his apostles that one will betray him. In this ambition, Da Vinci has undeniably succeeded. I could hear the commotion as the apostles roared and ejected their displeasure. I could feel as every apostle responded in fear, shock, and unease. The movements of the scene provide a sense of intensity like nothing I've seen before in art. Many paintings tend to stick to the static image, afraid to show anything in full motion. Da Vinci not only formulates an enchanting piece that loses you in the scene, but does so with one of the most heartbreaking moments in time.

Our guide discussed the interesting perspective Da Vinci chose with The Last Supper. The mathematical depth provided by Da Vinci gives this incredible illusion that the wall is a window into totally different room. Almost like an extension to the actual room. Magnificent!

Unfortunately, time has certainly done its worst to Da Vinci's masterpiece. The amount of peel, deterioration, and lack of color really asks, how much of Da Vinci's original vision remains intact? At least we're able to get a taste of Da Vinci's wondrous work.

Another interest tidbit was mentioned. During WWII, the Allies forces bombarded Milano consistently, since Mussolini headquarters was located here. Well, a bomb struck Santa Maria delle Grazie in 1943, destroying much of the refectory and covenant. To everyone's surprise and wonder, the wall that held The Last Supper remained untouched!

I have to say that The Last Supper by Leonardo Da Vinci showcases the power of art. Its ability to combine history, beauty, immersion all within a single piece just astounds me. And on-top of all of this, The Last Supper does the impossible: conjures a window that peers into a fabled past.

Upon leaving the celestial work, we were introduced to a replica outside. This area is where our tour guide could explain some of the more interesting details of the painting without the constraints of the allotted time given with the original piece.

A gift shop was located there here, full of all sorts of memorabilia dedicated solely to The Last Supper. I picked up small magnet.

After such a fabulous experience, I returned to the Milano train station for Florence. My time in Milan had come to a close, but what a phenomenal way to end it!

Getting to experience Leonardo Da Vinci's Last Supper on my birthday will absolutely rank as one of the most memorable birthdays of all time. Wow!

A Snowy Serie A

The looming time had arrived. My final days in Italy had emerged and everyone was packed up and ready to return home.

My mom, brother, and uncle were going to be flying into Italy as soon as school ended. We were going to travel a little around Florence and then spend Christmas in Rome before heading back to England. It would be a pleasant conclusion to an unforgettable semester.

Yet, misfortune struck once more. Everything crumbled, I mean EVERYTHING.

One of the hardest and most fearsome blizzards struck through Europe on the eve of everyone's departure. All flights were cancelled indefinitely, with countless travelers, students, and my family stranded in airports with absolutely no clue when they would be able to leave.

The snowy atmosphere throughout Florence was sublime, though:

The deadline to leave my apartment was exactly one day after school got out, so we decided that the best option would be to wait in a hotel until my family arrived.

It was impossible calling a taxi to come to my apartment, since almost everyone was trying to get a hold of one in the snow madness. So in the bitter snow, I hiked to the train station and waited in a humungous line for the taxis. Finally, I was provided with one and soon returned to the street where my apartment was. I told the taxi driver I'd quickly grab my luggage, so I quickly ran up to my apartment and lugged down 3 colossus suitcases down those evil stairs.

After nestling all the suitcases into the taxi, we then proceeded to the hotel.

What came next was the most absurd decision in all the history of taxi-drivers. The driver decided that he could only go a block away from the hotel. For some reason or another he refused to drive any further.

So I was forced to handle my 3 suitcases and 2 backpacks up a snow-covered, slushy, traffic-jammed street. This ordeal was crushing, annoying, and downright absurd!

After executing the complex formula of: Step a few feet, pull 2 suitcases, stop, get the other suitcase, I slowly arrived at the entrance of the hotel. This ridiculous maneuvering provided me numerous onlookers thinking I was either mad or just plain handicapped.

I checked into the hotel, found my room, and immediately collapsed into a dazed state.

The initial plan had been for my family to arrive during this period and for my brother and I to attend a Serie A football match in Milano. You see, my brother's favorite team is Roma, so getting a chance to watch A.C. Milan vs. Roma live would obviously be a rare and absolutely delightful opportunity.

Since the blizzard had crushed any hope of my family arriving in time, I was left to attend the match in Milano by my lonesome. :(

I arrived in Milano at around 6pm. I first traveled to the hotel that held my tickets, picked them up and jetted straight to the San Siro stadium.

While I didn't know exactly how to get from the closet metro stop to the stadium, I immediately recognized other A.C. Milan dressed fans rushing towards a certain direction. I knew whatever direction they were heading was probably the right one.

We rushed through a couple of blocks at full speed. I noticed by my watch that the match had already started. I accelerated.

Soon, I heard booming cheers in the distance coming closer. We suddenly turned into the San Siro Stadium. The giant arena stood boldly us. We quickly rushed to the gates, scanned our tickets, and proceeded to find the correct entrance to our seats.

I hurriedly spiraled to my seat location and entered into the inner stadium. The game was in motion. The entire Milan and Roma squad were suddenly playing before my very eyes. The sight was quite shocking. I quickly found my seat number and nestled in to fully absorb the bursting atmosphere.

The stadium, akin to my previous football adventure in Rome, was full of cheering, whistling, and mad enthusiasm from all fans.

 

The game turned out to be quite an eventful affair. Getting a chance to see the likes of Ronaldinho, Ibrahimovic, Pirlo (who was injured and subbed early), and Robinho was an extraordinary experience. Having followed these players through countless championships and tournaments, I was fully sucked into the game.

I recorded some glorious HD footage of the striking ambiance within the San Siro:

Milan vs. Roma

I also have to say, while Adriano may be in the final stages of his career, at one point he pulled off an incredible move that allowed him to maneuver through three Milan players. A shocking piece of skill that silenced the entire stadium.

The game ended with, Milan 0-1 Roma, a tap-in goal from Boriello. Although the game was nowhere near the sheer excitement of the thrilling Champions League match back in November, it was still thoroughly enjoyable and sincerely memorable.

I should also mention that the weather in Milan during the game was downright horrible. I spent the entire match covering my nose with my scarf, shivering from the bitter cold. It was practically sub-zero. No matter how many layers of clothing I wear, the coldness always seems to slice right through me.

After the game, I picked up an A.C Milan scarf for my brother and boarded a packed bus back to the hotel.

While I'd be spending the night in Milan, by tomorrow evening I'd back in Florence. My brother and I had initially planned this following day to see the Last Supper by Leonardo Da Vinci. Since this seminal work is one of the most popular attractions in all of Italy, booking waaay in advance was imperative. This was going to be a riveting experience!

Yet the atmosphere of the trip remained somewhat awkward. It had originally been coordinated with my brother in attendance, so the trip felt half-empty without him. Such is life, have to make the best out of the worst situation...

Wait a second! I just realized, my birthday's tomorrow! Going to see Da Vinci while in Milan is surely not the worst way to spend my 21st, right?

The Sienese Traveler

The final week had arrived for me in Florence. My roommates and I were rapidly packing and gearing up for our long-dreaded departure.

With final exams also around the corner, I didn't have much to time do anything else but focus on school and figuring how I was going to get all my things back home in a non-hazardous manner.

I was able to schedule one afternoon to travel to Siena prior to leaving. Siena is only one train ride from Florence, and would definitely be doable. I figured if I didn't take this time to travel there now, I'd never get the chance.

Soon after school dismissed, I jetted to the train station once more. I hopped on the next train to Siena. Upon arriving, a million signs were directing me to the main piazza of the city, Piazza Del Campo. With many other travelers also wanting to arrive at the same destination, we all marched towards the main sight. You could sense Christmas was approaching...

Piazza Del Campo turned out to a surprisingly different square, designed in a quite intriguing way. It's shaped like a semi-circle.

The square used to be a local marketplace for Sienese citizens, but today plays host to a famous biannual horse racing event, the Palio.

 

The design of the piazza is incredibly imaginative, leading towards Palazzo Pubblico, the local town hall. The huge clock tower is humongously tall, making sure you always know the time of day.

I grabbed lunch at a local pizzeria within Piazza Del Campo and observed the local scene. It was a relatively pleasant afternoon for Siena.

Afterwards, I proceeded to visit Siena's central fort. The museum within houses many local antiquities and numerous paintings related to Sienese culture.

This tree was plated in glowing gold:

 

The figure below is actually carved entirely from wood. To think it actually started from a mere block of wood!

 

Imagine what ancient secrets lay within the confines of these locked treasures:

I spiraled to the top of the fort, which provided the best view of Siena. It was sublime.

 

The viewpoints of Italy never get old, they always seem to dazzle. There's something very natural and absorbing about the Tuscan landscape that's not apparent in any other region. It's a mixture of history, nature, and tranquility. I find it hard sometimes translating the exact impression. I guess one has to experience it themselves to properly understand what I mean.

I next visited the Cathedral of Siena, one the main attractions of the city. Built during the 13th century, Siena's Dumo is a classic example of Italian Medieval architecture.

When German composer Richard Wagner visited Siena in the summer of 1880, the effect of the Cathedral of Siena had quite impact on him. It brought him to tears, and thus subsequently utilized its design for the Grail Temple in his famed opera, "Parsifal."

Many interesting and fascinating works lay within, including sculptures by Donatello.

Reflecting on the interior of the cathedral, I'm finding trouble properly distinguishing its unique characteristics. Not necessarily because it's a bland locale, but since I visited so many churches throughout Italy, they all now seem like one gargantuan church to my fish memory.

Some the pictures I took re-captured my experience within:

Siena's sense of pace is quite serene. It doesn't run on the busy nature of bigger cities, but maintains a very quiet, yet eloquent atmosphere. I appreciate the flavor, but I'm not sure if could seriously live in Siena. At least not now, maybe when I grow a few more grey hairs.

The Naples Connection

With one last weekend free to travel, I decided to spend it by navigating to a further side of Italia, Napoli.

Known for its gangsters, architecture, and pizza, Napoli grasps a distinct and popular slice of Italian culture.

Napoli would be the longest ride I'd taken in Italy, requiring a whooping three hours to arrive in the Neapolitan area. I grabbed an awfully early train to Napoli Saturday morning (Dec.11), during which I caught up on some much needed sleep.

After trekking through the Tuscany and Lazio regions, we soon approached the Neapolitan view.

After arriving at the Napoli's central station, I stepped out into the jam packed center of Napoli. The amount of mad walkers, drivers, and loud noise was quite shocking. After getting used to the hustle and bustle madness of Napoli and I went in search to find the ultimate Neapolitan pizza.

One of the famous pizzerias in all of Italy, Da Michele, was what I was specifically looking for. Di Michele houses pictures of one of their most famous returning customers Maradona, who dined often here while playing for the local football club, Napoli. The pizzeria also featured in Julia Robert's travel-log feature, Eat Prey, Love.

I finally tracked down the place, hidden deep within the narrow neighborhoods of Napoli.

As I stepped in, I was welcomed into quintessential Italian pizzeria.

The cash-register was run by an elderly Italian owner, pictures of classic Italian film posters on the wall, with numerous pizza makers furiously formulating random dough into artful food.

It was positively awesome having a pizza bigger than the size of my head, split into two distinct styles.

As lunch time approached, the pizzeria got extremely busy, requiring everyone to sit right next to each other. My personal bubble was sooo invaded! 

After indulging in what must have been the greatest sauce of all time (secret recipe?), I caught the closet bus towards the distinguished Neapolitan art gallery, the Capodimonte.

Traveling through the core of Napoli was fascinating. It was far different from anything I'd seen in Italy. Endless lines of hanging clothes covered the heights of the Neapolitan neighborhood. Many parts of the city are built upon high hillsides, providing an incredibly wavy landscape.

There was also a lot of dust, sand, and dirt, with architecture built with brown rock and cerement. This all gave Napoli a very dusty atmosphere, totally opposite to the greenness found in the upper regions of Italia. It seemed a little grungy and dirty to be quite honest.

While traveling to the museum, I ventured into the one of the most popular churches in Napoli:

Also, do bear in mind that traveling through the transpiration in Napoli is far removed from anything in Florence, Milan, or Rome. It required utilizing my godlike Italian language skills and a drop of luck to emerge successfully at the front of gates of the Capodimonte.

The Capodimonte holds critical works by Raphael, as well as other paintings by renowned artists, such as Titian and Caravaggio.

They weren't very many people touring the museum during the time I visited. Regardless, I found the museum to be quite fascinating, full of the enchanting atmosphere found within a typical Italian art gallery. Since many prominent works of Raphael are housed here, I was able to properly focus on his work and get a true understanding of his art form. While Raphael's work may not contain the visceral nature of a Michelangelo piece, or the exquisite flavor found in a Da Vinci painting, they retain an intimate quality like no other.

The sense of compassion found within Raphael's drawn figures is phenomenal. The tender look of the Virgin Mary looking upon her beloved Jesus brings to life the love, affection, and bond between the figures. Raphael's paintings don't focus on the grandeur, but rather the chosen characters. Thoroughly absorbing.

After the Capodimonte, I headed for the Naples coastline. Upon arriving, I ventured into Castel Nuovo (New Castle). For centuries, this castle was run by the ancient royal family, and has since been become a true showcase of Naples Medieval history.

While in the castle, a few open rooms within were under heavy excavation:

The site was directly below, enabling me to travel across, thanks to a thick, but clear walk-way. I felt seriously disillusioned and a little terrified walking across a path that I could see clearly through. Heights are not my forte.

Ah, but I wonder what medieval wonders lay beneath my very feet!

I traveled to the higher reaches of Castel Nuovo and walked out to the balcony. The view was stunning! The entire Neapolitan seaport was before my very eyes.

 Beyond the seaport, through the misty clouds also lay Mount Vesuvius along with the mythical Pompeii.

It's was an engrossing and fabled view, putting into perspective the historical tragedy that turned Pompeii into a sea of dust by Mt. Vesuvius' volcanic eruptions, centuries ago.

After properly taking the tranquility of the classic coastline, I explored some of the more busier parts of Naples, where many people were shopping through the streets. Excluding the coastline, I didn't recall visiting any area in Naples that wasn't crowd or full of random noise.

I traveled past the Neapolitan Opera house:

With time rapidly dissolving, I pinpointed the correct auto-bus to take me back to train station. This bus ride was ridiculous. When I initially stepped onto the bus, it wasn't packed at all. Yet as we ventured on, each stop filled the bus with more travelers. It soon became absurdly packed, to a point where the bus-doors were having trouble closing. We were jam-packed like can of tuna, with numerous Italians shouting expletives far too advanced for my understanding. The accents were also far different from anything my ears were used to in the northern regions.

After what seemed like an hour in a furnace, filled with shouting, pushing, and odd bodily smells, the bus finally arrived at the front gates of the train station.

Naples is an interesting city, laced in mannerisms, styles, and an overall atmosphere far removed from anything I'd visited before in Italy. While I may not be as keen on Naples as Florence or Rome, it supplies Italy with a replenishing diversity. If you ever get tired of art in Florence, history in Rome, Fashion in Milan, or Water in Venice, remember there's always pizza in Naples.