Monteriggioni

Immortalized in Dante's Inferno, while recreated in Assassin's Creed II, Monteriggioni's imprint on culture is surprisingly apparent.

Being mid-December and the school session rapidly coming to a close, I felt traveling to Monteriggioni would a welcome change of pace, full of the authenticity that many bigger Italian cities tend to lose sight of.

Since Monteriggioni borders near Florence, traveling to the stronghold would need nothing more than a day-trip.

I took a ride to the closet stop and was dropped off at the footing of the hillside which holds Monteriggioni in all its stone glory.

Monteriggioni's at it's historical peak was quite prominent. Not only was it a stopping-point for pilgrimages traveling to Rome, but also one of the strongest forts in all of Tuscany.

As I ascended towards Monteriggioni, I noticed it held much of its history on its appearance.

 
Due its drenched warfare past with invading barbarians, numerous guard towers and walls are battered and crumbled. While I'm sure the curator's could have easily repaired such deficiencies, by leaving it untouched we are able to view Monteriggioni in its true form.

I finally reached the gates and entered into the Italian fort.

The size of Monteriggioni is shockingly small. You could cross straight through the fort in less than five minutes. The town square Monteriggioni provides only a handful of memorabilia stores, couple of restaurants, a museum, and a small church.

Within in one of the restaurants, I saw a surprising picture of Robert Kennedy. Apparently, Kennedy visited the fort many years ago and spent time touring the area.

I toured the mini-museum and found it to be pleasant and enjoyable, full of recreated armor and dioramas. I also explored the small church and then ascended to the walls of Monteriggioni.

 

The view was impeccable, dipped in a visual feast full of meadows, forests, and endless green turf. Miles of fresh hillsides and grasslands, without the presence of technology or modernism. This is how the pilgrimages would have viewed the Tuscan landscape over five hundred years ago. Nothing has changed, for here, everything remains constant.

Many Italians were visiting the fort, allowing me to discern that it is in such sites that Italians spend their recreational time, not in the bustle of tourist attractions.

After immersing myself in the atmosphere of Monteriggioni, I spiraled down from stronghold.

Although it was a light affair, traveling to Monteriggioni was considerably pleasant, showcasing the quiet and natural diversity of Italy. A place dipped in history, rather than glamor. Plus, who doesn't want to the visit the hometown of fellow assassin, Ezio Auditore da Firenze.

The Marathon Man

Earlier in October, I came across some information regarding an upcoming event, the Firenze marathon. This marathon is the second largest in the country and supposedly provides a route that is one of the most beautiful in the world.

The crux of the marathon mazes through the ancient wonders of the Florentine landscape, traveling past iconic symbols as the Ponte Vecchio, Ufizi Gallery, and Il Duomo.

The philosophy of this marathon thoroughly intrigued. I'd never run a marathon before but the opportunity to undertake such a challenge in one of the most visually fascinating cities, Florence, was something I couldn't shake off so easily.

The deadline to sign up for the event also happened to be the same day I found about the marathon. With pressure to pull the trigger, along with the adrenaline of undertaking such a mad challenge, I hastily signed up for my very first marathon.

Fast forward a month later, and the marathon is set to take place on the last November 28, 2010.

Only one problem, I've been training for only one week.

I know, I know. But with absurdly long class sessions, excursions, and watching Roma take on Bayern Munich (still great, BTW), I wasn't able to focus much time on the 42 kilometer monster.

Within the week I had to prepare, I began strict jogging sessions, focused on tight eating habits, and properly scrutinized every inch of my body, for any small deficiency would cause a serious problem in the marathon.

I addressed all sorts of issues that might come up deep into the event. Things like keeping track of time, gathering proper running clothes, building a robust and impeccable marathon play-list for my iPhone, and most importantly, purchasing the most aero dynamic pair shoes on the market. Oh, and also an extra-slick haircut. Gotta look good for the camera!

The day prior to the marathon, the sponsors held a fair in order to pick up your number badges, purchase last minute items, and basically partake in pre-marathon hype.

As I traveled to the event, I noticed people of all shapes and sizes attending the fair. People from across continents had flown in for the marathon, along with family members tag-teaming in tackling the race together. This really was going to be a world marathon! A huge list of the participants were listed on the gigantic board.

I looked through and found my name!

I claimed my number badge and also picked up an awesome white Firenze marathon jacket. They had two masseurs on hand, providing massages to any participant who wished to have their muscles relaxed. I happily participated and received a heavenly message that put my muscles in a beautifully sweet state.

With goodie bag in tow, I merrily headed back to my apartment, climbed up the stairs (still a 324 step nightmare), and took the rest of the day quite easy. Although I went to bed early, I found it ridiculously hard to fall sleep and ended up tossing and turning most of the night. Blame it on excitement or nervousness, who knows?

With the marathon set begin at 9am sharp, upon Piazza Michelangelo, the finest position to view Florence from, I rose out of bed at about 7am and thoroughly prepared, both physically and mentally, for the anticipated event.

My roommate and I left the apartment to find a steady drizzle upon Florence. Oh great, of all days to rain....

As we walked to the Arno River, many runners were also hiking to the buses which would take you to the starting position. They were all also wearing rain ponchos (from the goodie bag). I should have worn mine...

The buses were packed, but we got to Piazza Michelangelo quickly. I was soon escorted to my starting gate and began my final preparations for the marathon.

The view from above was breathtaking:

The rain actually became quite aggressive at this point, during which I ventured to find someone with an umbrella. Luckily, I found one runner who was smart enough to bring one. I slowly moved over to that side of the starting area and inconspicuously hid under his umbrella. Every time he moved, I inched with him. Quite playful.

Helicopters surveyed the area, filming for national television. My Dad and brother actually watched, via internet streaming, the opening moments of the Marathon through this feed.

As the gunshot fired into the sky, so began the 2010 Firenze marathon.

We, an army of runners, spiraled down Piazza Michelangelo with insane enthusiasm and vigor. With slippery rain streaking down, observing the landscape of the Florentine city, and listening to "Achilles Last Stand" by Led Zeppelin, an epic sense invigorated me with pumping emotion. This was it.

The opening moments of the marathon were quite tricky. Although I had much energy and this point, I had to continuously remind myself not to drain everything during these stages. It's not about how fast you can go, it's about how long can you endure it all.

Pace is key, speed is irrelevant.

The first five miles of the marathon were quite satisfying. I maintained pace, enjoyed the landscape, and appreciated the alliance of my fellow Italian runners. I also stopped during break points to re-energize myself as much as possible.

The rain, well not as strong as it was in the morning, remained a constant presence through the entire day. Fun stuff, right? Luckily, by about an hour into the marathon, I lost all sense of being cold or wet. I'd overcome my coldness with body heat and my track suit was already soaked, so there wasn't much I could do.

As we reached the 10th mile, we routed past Porta Romana, one of the biggest and oldest gates from the Renaissance period. Going over cobbled stones were quite tricky, providing an unusual balance and sometimes painful response.

My marathon play-list (developed by my brother and myself) was incredible in providing me with an array of stimulating songs. Everything from rap, techno, rock, pop, and even key soundtracks pumped me with the juice to keep my adrenaline going.

It was when I reached about the 13th mile that things became quite scary. I hit "the wall."

"The wall" can come at any stage. In the first 5 miles, or the last 2. Anytime is fair game. It is during these moments that your willpower will be tested to the breaking point. Every ounce in your body will be telling you that they can't and will not go on, yet it's your mind that will overcome this draining effect and continue forth with the marathon.

My body soon began to ache and feel utterly exhausted. I had come half way and still had another half to go. Could I really make it? I remember staring at this endlessly long road in front me, questioning how I was going to continue on. It was still miles to go, plus I would need to maintain pace in order make it in the allotted time.

I buckled down and decided to think of progressive thoughts. Regardless of how far I had left to go, I kept repeating, "Just keep going, don't think about the 13 miles ahead, just continue. Imagine the accomplishment you'll achieve by completing such a monumental challenge, and in Italy of all places. This will be an unforgettable victory if you can overcome this obstacle." Plus, my family was rooting for me back at home, along with my roommates waiting at the finish line. I couldn't let them down.

Get in the zone, Arif!

And so I did....

Through a combination of determination, incredible music, and a healthy balance of walking and running, I was able to run past "the wall" and continue forth on my journey through the Florence cityscape.

We pasted Pitti Palace and the Fiorentina football stadium during this period.

Another, almost crumbling moment came during about the 16-17th mile. We were approaching a concrete bridge. As I ascended, something in my right leg utterly shocked me to the core that as I descended, every step surged sizzling pain through my calf and thigh muscles.

I literally stopped in my tracks. I just couldn't move without feeling needling pain in my right leg. I stretched-out my muscles to the best of my ability, while other runners ran past. Slowly but surely, I was able limp and slowly walk.

I noticed that if I tried to run at my previous speed, I'd cringe in pulsating pain. So I developed a finely tuned jog that allowed me to slowly continue without aggravating my leg muscles.

As the refreshment points emerged every five miles, I relished in the opportunity to take in some warm liquid, stimulating energy food, and the chance to recover my depleted energy.

We hit some more stony streets further on, which gave my right muscles quite a scare. Taking it extra slow, I managed to overcome these bumpy areas also and continue.

We U-turned over one of the more narrow streets and found ourselves heading back to the heart of Florence. Running at a much better pace, I observed the immortal Duomo in my sights.

This was it. We were coming to the end of my greatest challenge.

But something strange happened. As the Duomo's mighty presence stood within feet of us, the path suddenly turned north. It was leading us out of the city center, once again. Oh god, this was far from being over.

My heart sank deeper the longer we continued on, for I knew the farther we went out of the heart of Florence, we would have to trek this mileage back, since the finishing line was in Piazza Santa Croce, located in the center of Florence.

It was when we finally hit Santa Maria Novella train station that the bend eventually began to turn towards the Arno River, the path that would lead us through the final stages of the marathon.

At this point, EVERY SINGLE muscle in my body was burning, aching, and yearning for an end to this mad circus. Even my arm muscles were drained beyond endurance despite not holding anything! Yet I ventured on, with the Ponte Vecchio in my sights.

As I paced over the classic Ponte Vecchio, a sea of history, vigor, and sheer relevance washed over me. While the stony bridge pushed my pained muscles to the breaking point, I recognized that these stones meant something.

We then curved into the defining Piazza della Signora. This epic moment overwhelmed my conscious. The classic mythical statues of yore, along with the acclaimed architecture of Palazzo Vecchio motivated me beyond anything else.

The final moments of the marathon had arrived. Pushing, fighting, and relentlessly continuing on, I turned into Piazza Santa Croce.

As the arousing crowd cheered, Gorilla Zoe's "Lost" blared through my earphones, and the finishing line came into view, I suddenly became very emotional. Every sense of pain, passion, perseverance had all come down to this moment.

As I crossed the finished line, I conquered the Firenze marathon as a new being. No longer was I the same person prior to this undertaking. The discovery of mastering one of the hardest challenges was a life-defining moment. I had pushed myself, both physically and psychologically, to the utter breaking point and discovered to what lengths I could overtake any monstrous task.

I was endowed with my golden necklace right after crossing the finishing line and escorted onwards.

Near to tears and overwhelmed with excitement and joyous accomplishment, I met up with my roommates who waiting at the finishing line. They took this enduring picture of me, dipped in all the golden glory of the marathon triumph.

We returned home and conversed over every facet of the marathon. We discussed the physical and mental barriers that entangled me constantly, along with the near-breaking moment during which my right leg muscles caved in. They additionally spoke to me about the other marathoners and how some finished with grace, while other fell flat in the final moments!

There was also an official marathon dinner held in the evening that my roommates and I attended. It was a splendid evening, full of music, endless food (I had soo much), and awards for the athletes who finished in the top places.

The impact of the Firenze marathon cannot be overstated; it's had an effect on almost every aspect of my life. I look at things with a new eye and have grown much more within, knowing my capabilities. While my body has physically recovered and forgotten the excruciating torture it endured (sorry!), the internal gain will last forever more.

It's also something one has to experience on their own. While I can endlessly elaborate on the triumphs it's had on me personally, your own conquering of a marathon is what will seal the importance and relevance of such a monumental undertaking.

This experience has to be the most significant and riveting of my entire adventure abroad, maybe my whole life. Although I may partake in greater wonders in the future, until such episodes occur, this is definitely in the top three.

Oh, and one final thing. I was able to recover my personal stats:

Starting Number: 11329
Finishing Time: 5:41:58
Ranking (overall): 7663/7759
Ranking (Men): 6521/6581

Not bad for only one week of proper training, eh?

Profondo Argento + Castel Sant'Angelo

With the crucial Champions League match concluded, I chose to spend the following day traveling to some other essential sites within the Eternal city.

I anxiously hiked forth to the Profondo Rosso store, the classic Italian horror store, founded by film auteur, Dario Argento.

The gravity of this store for me can be overstated. Ever since I've been captivated by the wonders of Argento's pictures, I've always dreamt of making a pilgrimage to the famed store. It's something I've constantly hoped for and with this study abroad experience set motion; I accordingly put this endeavor to the highest of priorities.

After finding my way through the maze of the city center of Rome, I finally discovered, Profondo Rosso.

I ventured in to find everything exactly as I'd imagined. The store was filled with exquisite horror memorabilia, Argento related material, and all sorts of outrageous horror oddities. The store is run by the store owner, Luigi Cozzi, director of a handful of Italian exploitation films from the 1970s.

I ended up some grabbing some wicked Bava and Argento T-shirts, along with some Argento books, written by Cozzi himself.

Luigi Cozzi turned out to be exceptionally kind and quite friendly.

The other, more important reason for journeying such lengths to the store, was to experience the museum within Profondo Rosso.

The museum holds a gore-tastic array of props, costumes, and recreations from a variety of Argento films, all set within a dark, haunted setting.

 

 

As I descended, I became fully immersed in the spectacle of the museum's frightening offerings. It was incredible to wander through and observe the horrific wonders found within. The creatures from DEMONS, the murderous crows from OPERA, the demented child-killer from PHENOMENA, along with the towering templars from THE CHURCH, all taunted me as I explored the darkly-lit chambers.

 

 

It was an incredible to see these recreations in real life, having grown up watching these masterpieces on the silver screen.

After adventuring through the museum, I returned back to ground level. I spoke with Cozzi for a little bit about the store and film in general. He explained that he runs the store with his wife and would like to return to filmmaking, but the Italian film industry is practically non-existent now. He also spoke about how Argento is set to be making DRACULA, yet was only able to get funding due the concession that he would make it in 3D. Furthermore, all films in Italy currently in production are being made with a future in TV in mind. Meaning that all the themes, violence, and content must be reduced to accommodate what is acceptable on TV.

Although I'd heard about this unfortunate state prior, hearing it first hand was quite depressing. From the country that had produced masterclass filmmakers as Fellini, Argento, Fulci, and Bava, they have become quite lethargic.

I thanked Mr.Cozzi thoroughly for his time, and bid the Profondo Rosso Store a fond farewell.

After such a memorable experience with one of my most idealized sites, I continued forth towards the Castel Sant'Angelo.

 

Castel Sant'Angelo has a very striking history. Connected with Vatican City itself through a secret passageway, Castel Sant'Angelo was the stone fortress for numerous Pope when Rome sacked throughout its turbulent years.

Today, Castel Sant'Angelo is a quite a prominent figure in contemporary culture. It plays a central location in Puccini's TOSCA, Dan Brown's ANGELS AND DEMONS, and ASSASSIN'S CREED II.

Before actually arriving at the entrance of Castel Sant'Angelo, it is required to cross over the Tiber river. While traveling across the famed bridge of the castle, many dominating Angelic statues stood fearlessly, guarding their scared castle.

 

I soon entered in and began my ascent towards the top. Large pathways led towards the higher reaches of the fortress, such, so that if any forces were to storm the castle, the defenders would have a much easier task in picking off the opposing storm.

I also observed a perfect Ezio climbing point:

Along with a fascinating, unfinished Angelic statue:

I eventually reached the highest platform of the castle and looked out into the vast vista of the Roman landscape.

 

Monumental sites as Vittorio Emanuele and Vatican City stood beautifully in site, with the Tiber River streaming through the cityscape. While not as awe-inspiring as the Tuscan landscape or Swiss Alps, the Roman view still provides a snapshot full of history and wondrous relevance.
 

Before leaving, I observed the most famous object in all of Castel Sant'Angelo and the reason for its name. Legend has it, the arch Angel Michael appeared atop of the castle in 590, signaling the end of the disastrous plague.

Subsequently, I leisurely took the afternoon train back to Florence. It was actually refreshing, being able to travel without fighting against time for once.

After visiting three very different sides of the Roman spectrum over the past two days, I've gathered that the divergence apparent within Rome is quite riveting. Simply, if your just a fan of life, Rome is a place you'll rather enjoy.

A Very Roman Champions League

While I have many indulgences, whether it be films, books, or video games, one of my other passions lie in the world of Football. Watching the clubs, leagues, along with the spectacle of international play is something I find utterly absorbing and thoroughly thrilling.

With A.S. Roma, a top tier Italian club, playing against my personal favorite, Bayern Munich, in the world's most prestigious tournament, the Champions League, I immediately knew this was an opportunity I couldn't afford to miss without painfully regretting it.

To be able to watch my favorite team, along with the ability to attend one of wickedest tournaments was something I'd only dream out.

I booked my tickets a month in advanced and anticipated the showcase event. I followed the development of the players, trying to figure players would be available to play. It turned out key players such as Robben and Schweinsteiger were unavailable to play. Oh well, at least many other exciting players would still able to play, including a return for the majestic Francesco Totti and French winger, Frank Ribery.

As November 23rd arrived, I jetted straight to the train station after class dismissed. I took the first ride to Rome and arrived well in advanced for the football match.

I checked into my hotel and began to march forth towards the most cherished stadium in all of Italia, the Stadio Olimpico.

As I tried to figure the best possible method to arrive at the stadium, I soon found it much easier to follow the many Roma fans also hiking to the stadium. Oddly enough, they hopped onto a bus which had many Bayern Munich supporters chanting in the back. The German banter, along with the Italian response was a unique experience. I doubt the Italians knew what their enemies were saying, along with the Germans having no clue to what vulgar responses the Italian threw in return. It turned out be quite a eventful bus ride.

Soon, as the bus inched closer the stadium, the roads became ridiculously congested, filled with numerous cars, buses, and countless supporters from both sides. When we arrived at our stop, just outside the stadium, the entire bus exited with much haste.

As I observed the Stadio Olimpico from the exterior, I could only imagine the excitement and pure bliss that the stadium held within.

As I made my way to the entrance, I noticed all the Bayern Munich fans being escorted by a police patrol to their side of the stadium. The Roma ultra (the most violent breed of Roma fans) are considered the most violent supporters in the world and have been numerously lambasted for their excessive violence towards opposing supporters. This escort was mandatory for any German traveling to the game.

I scanned my cherished ticket in the metallic bar code scanner and was green-lighted for admittance.

As I passed the first check point, I was immediately stopped by a wall of security personnel.

They were checking people's bags. I had a water bottle that I was forced to discard. Too bad because I actually liked that bottle, It was the sports type one. :(

Moving forth, I was presented with a plethora of football merchandising stands, selling an array of football gear. I picked up a rather awesome scarf that detailed the place, teams, and time the forthcoming game was taking place in. Very personalized and specific for this game.

I finally came to the stadium. Finding my section in the stadium, I began to climb the steps to the enter the famed arena. As I reached my section and stepped out, I was floored by overwhelming landscape before me.

The Stadio Olimpico was gigantic, expansive, and full of life. The Roma-ultra were roaring, chanting, and pumping the stadium with excitement. Across in the corner, were the Munich supporters, isolated from everyone else. They too were chanting, trying to drown out the overwhelming clamor from the Roma supporters. It wasn't working.

As I found my specific seat, I spent the next 10 minutes taking in the breathtaking atmosphere of the forthcoming game. It was full of excitement, adrenaline, and joyous anticipation.

Many sponsors were on display, including SONY with their PS3 line:

I also sipped on a Cola Red Bull as I anticipated the colossal clash:

Soon the timer ticked down, and with it, the two decorated teams entered onto the pitch. Many of the great players were on hand, warming up. Players like Totti, Lahm, De Rossi, and were Muller were all going to perform before my very eyes. The feeling was surreal.

The importance of this game was paramount for Roma. To put it in perspective, if Roma were to lose this match, they would be out of the entire tournament. Bayern Munich have already advanced, so for them, winning is only a matter of pride.

While Bayern Munich is my number one side, I chose to support Roma in this particular match for a couple of reasons. One, I was in Rome's home stadium, everyone around me had such enthusiasm for their home team I felt somewhat inspired. And also, Roma needs this win much more than Munich.

The players lined up once more, this time for the classic Champions League anthem:

And as the whistle soon blew, the game officially commenced.

The first half was ridiculously disappointing for Roma. Awesome skill, movement, and vision was apparent in the Munich side, but with nothing to been seen from the Giallorossi. Munich dominated as if they it was they're playing on home turf.

By the time the first half came to a close, Munich were up by 2 goals from Mario Gomez, silencing the Stadio Olimpico. As everybody took their breaks, a variety of condescending comments and responses rightfully flew from the Roma supporters. AS Roma had everything to play for, yet it seemed as if they just weren't interested.

As the second half whistle blew, the Roma supporters anticipated a positive response to the ridiculous poor first half.

With furious might, vigor, and passion that would inspire a country, Roma fought back, tooth and nail to climb 2-2 against Munich. It was spectacular work from Borriello, De Rossi, Vucinic, and Menez. Wondrous coordination with beautiful teamwork helped lift Roma from their depressing state.

The Roma supporters were roaring with enthusiasm and excitement, for their team had literally changed the landscape of the game. During the course of the second half, the pinnacle of Roman football, Francesco Totti was subbed into the enthralling game.

Oddly enough, a Munich supporter was randomly seen observing from the Roman side.

She received much ill attention from the Roma supporters, but she didn't seem to take much heed.

As the game entered into the final minutes, the stadium grew in reluctant anticipation. Roma needed one more goal, but with little time left, would it be possible?

Vucinic sped down left wing, skipped passed his opponent and furiously maneuvered towards the goal. At the crucial moment, Thomas Kraft slid in and had both Vucinic and the ball cut out. The referee blew the whistle and awarded Roma with a penalty!

The unanimous roar of utter bliss and relief echoed throughout the stadium. This was Roma's moment. It was now, or never.

Il captiano, Francesco Totti stepped up to take the nerve-wracking penalty. I cannot emphasize enough how nervous, scared, and utterly absorbed by the game we all were at this point.

This was it, it all came down to this.

Here's the madness, as it unfolded:

Champions League Penalty

I found myself high-fiving random supporters I didn't knew as I screamed in unison with the deafening howls of joyous wonder, excitement, and pure exuberation.

The game continued on this high octane pace to the final whistle, which afterwards, the entire stadium tore the house down with endless reverberation of true happiness.

Although they looked utterly defeated by the end of the first half, A.S. Roma had shined in the latter half. This is the power of supporting and truly believing against such incalculable odds.

A.S. Roma had done it, we had done...

As I left with my Roman brethren from the stadium, a touching sense of companionship became apparent. Many supporters were buying the scarf I'd purchased earlier, in order to remember the cherished experience. Interestingly enough, the vendors had doubled the price after the colossal win. Great marketing work...

As I boarded the bus packed with my fellow Roma fans chanting, singing, and relishing in the joyous moment, I took some time to reflect on what I had experienced. While this Champions League game was not my first football match (thanks Liverpool!), the significance and importance of this particular game is unparalleled.

Being able to live the exhilarating experience of such a beautiful comeback with the home supporters, is something that can never be replicated. It's one thing enjoying a game thousands of miles away on a HD screen, but an entirely affair, actually living the experience. This adventure I will recollect as I watch future football matches and reminiscent on how thrilling and unifying the football experience can be.

This night was another sublime episode in the adventures of my ever-wondrous European voyage.