The Fashion Capital of the World

OK, the title's a bit of a stretch. While Milan may host some of the finest designers in the world, I didn't really explore the fashion side of Milan's offerings. What can I say, I'm not a girl and I just don't go weak in the knees when the words Prada, Gucci, or Versace are tossed around.

With the breathtaking concert now over, I took following day to explore the main sights of Milano's city centre.

The first place I headed towards was the famous Milan cathedral. It's the world's largest Gothic cathedral and was also the cherished location where Napoleon declared himself emperor of Europe.

This magnificent piece of architecture had an incredible impact as soon as I stepped up from the Metro.

 
This imposing structure reaches to incredible heights and defies the general notion of what a church should look like in Italy.

The heavy Germanic influence on the entire build is unquestionable.

After experiencing the size, scope, and complexity of the exterior design, I ventured into explore what the interior had to offer.

I picked up one of the available audio guides and began my exploration.

Each stained glass, spread throughout the church, represents a certain biblical story. They were incredibly detailed and quite attractive. Observing all sorts of colors bursting through from the sun rays was a splendid sight. It's also the only church in Italy I saw with stained glass.

Many imposing statues, sculptures, and pieces where nicely nestled throughout the church.

One of the most striking pieces on display was this phenomenal statue of Bartholomew, carrying his own skin.

The amount of detail developed for the statue is staggering. The veins, muscles, and bones are all shockingly life-like.

He holds skin, with disturbing pride.

It's quite chilling and horrific, yet utterly absorbing.

I also ventured into the underground of the cathedral where some of the most influential Milanese church figures are entombed.

I stepped out once more into the open and found that it's actually possible to ascend to the very heights of the towering cathedral.

So off I went, hiking up the endless spiral of stairs, until I reached the slippery slopes of Milan's highest. A steady stream of drizzle pervaded all around, making it quite uneasy and edgy while up there. The only sense of security was a very shallow railing, which didn't seem too sturdy.

Although I was thoroughly impressed with the ability to view Milan from a such vantage point, I was disappointed with the actual view.

While Rome, Florence, and Venice have many recognizable and lush locales to spot when viewing from atop, Milan's view was quite static. Milan doesn't have a strong visual palette and seems very generic.

To put it simply, if I didn't know I was in Milan, it would be impossible to tell.

I soon backtracked and found myself at ground level yet again.

You could tell Christmas season is just around the corner:

I decided to visit the prestigious Brera Accademia, for it houses some key works by Caravaggio, Raphael, and Mantegna.

On the way, I decided to take a de-tour and visit the famed La Scala. Considered by many to be the finest opera house in the world, La Scala has held world premieres for classic works by such prestigious names as Verdi, Puccini, and Rossini.

As I ventured down the street which supposedly held La Scala. I saw a statue of Leonardo Da Vinci posed towards a quite odd-looking building. I walked closer to this very boxed and unattractive structure. The building was bolted up with wooden doors, no entrances, windows, or lights. They were only a few framed posters on the wall, which wrote, "La Scala."

I couldn't believe that this building, which could have easily been mistaken for a homeless shelter, is considered the greatest opera house in the world.

I've been to The Metropolitan Opera House in NYC and Covent Garden in London, and both are infinitely better than La Scala in very imaginable facet. These have lush entrances, elaborate stores, beautiful designs, and look visually outstanding. La Scala, from its design all the way to its color scheme, fail miserably in every department.

Talk about a ridiculous disappointment. I guess it's history is what makes it so famous, but trust me, the $700 tickets being charged for the forthcoming Carmen production is a bit of a joke.

I also walked by a poster showcasing the excellent Caravaggio exhibition taking place in Florence:

Works by Caravaggio from all over the world have been brought to Florence for this rare exhibition. Without question, one the finest exhibitions I've ever attended.

I continued on and soon found myself at very secretive entrance of the Brera Accademia.

Before I was stopped by the evil witches of the Accademia, I snapped one shot of the "Lamentation over the Dead Christ" by Andrea Mantegna:

This outstanding piece is revolutionary for its ingenious sense of perspective.

While I explored the entire gallery, I was very impressed with what the Brera Accademia had to offer, although it doesn't hold a candle to the wonders found in the Uffizi or the British National Gallery.

Taking to the Milano streets yet again, I began back to the train station for my journey home.

Along the way, I stumbled by some wicked retro art that caught my eye:

Milan is very eventful city, that has a lot to offer when you peer within. The only problem is, it doesn't exactly look that inspiring.

I guess looks can be deceiving. Just look at La Scala. On second thought, I'd rather not...

The Ectasy of Ennio Morricone

Italy is famous for many things. Whether it's their food, art, or architecture, Italy holds distinction in quite a few areas. One area the Italy holds much repertoire in is film, and with it, they play host to the world's most accomplished film composer, Ennio Morricone.

When I discovered that Morricone was going to be performing a concert in Milan on Nov. 19th at the Millennium Forum, I flipped out. Not only has this man been the single most played artist on my iPod, but also the one who practically defined the Western genre. Regardless of whether or not you know who Morricone is by name, I guarantee you've heard his music.

Booking my tickets well in advance, I anxiously awaited the event. I traveled straight to Milan right after class on Friday and arrived fairly early in the afternoon. I took a short nap at the hotel in order to prep for the anticipated event.

The TV in the hotel welcomed me in many languages:

Awesome!

I soon marched forth to the Auditorium, but not before traveling through this scary hallway:

As I arrived at the Millennium Forum, I was happy to see quite a few attendees queuing to pick up their tickets. I joined the line and soon jumped with joy as I was provided with my very own ticket.

I tunneled into the forum, climbed the endless steps, and found myself inside the huge auditorium. I located my precious seat and settled in for what sure to be an unforgettable 2 hours.

Soon the auditorium filled up and before I knew it, the entire auditorium was filled with attendees.

As the clock struck 9, the lights dimmed and with it, the concerto commenced.

First the orchestra took stage and soon followed the man himself, Ennio Morricone, who was welcomed with a resounding applause.

He first began with some earlier works and even conducted riveting pieces I'd never heard before.

Morricone holds a staggering resume, having composed over 500 film and TV productions. If Morricone was to compose his entire career, we'd be here for the next year, so it's only fitting that certain key works be chosen for the concert.

Some certain pieces that I hold dear were left out (Cockeye's Theme or Man with a Harmonica), yet it was understandable.

Before the half-way break commenced, Morricone entered into his classic Western compositions. The first piece he conducted was the ever immortal theme from THE GOOD, THE BAD, THE UGLY. Hearing the rousing whistles, tunes, and eccentric sounds from Morricone's orchestra was gorgeous, spectacular, and full of lush color. The unfiltered music beautifully rung through my ears as I observed the maestro enthusiastically conduct his most famous work.

The Good, The Bad, The Ugly

Afterwards, the orchestra silently paused with Morricone oddly leaving the stage. There was an awkward moment for I'm not sure anybody knew what was going on. Ah, but then suddenly Morricone re-emerged, escorting a very dignified lady on stage. It turns out she is world-renowned Soprano who has sung in Opera houses as The Met, Covent Garden, and La Scala (the homeless shelter), and was going to perform the vocals for the next piece, The Ecstasy of Gold!

Without a doubt, the experience of being able to view Morricone and orchestra perform Ecstasy of Gold is one of the highlights of my entire semester in Italy.

The moving aura of the beautiful vocals, along with pitch-perfect musical cues by the orchestra was both surreal and utterly absorbing. As the piece reached varies climaxes, observing Morricone conduct to the rhythmical tunes of the masterful piece was downright godly. Every subtle gesture and movement from Morricone cued such a grandiose response from his orchestra. Bells were ringing, violinists striking their cords, horns being blown to the height of their apex, along with a choir that rung through the halls of the forum. Yet, it wasn't mad or chaotic. It was strung all together beautifully by the intricate design of Morricone's work.

I was able to encapsulate the moment through the wonderful wonders of technology:

The Ecstasy of Gold

I even remember saying to myself, "this is the greatest thing ever." While the statement may be a wee-bit exaggerated, the emotion and sheer impact it had me on is quite clear.

After having tasted a bit of heaven, I was brought back down to reality when the mid-break commenced.

Anxiously awaiting what other wonders Mr.Morricone had in store for the second part, I remained glued to my seat, staring at the now-empty stage.

Soon, the orchestra returned to the stage, along with the Maestro, to officially begin the second act.

He performed other famous tunes, including pieces from THE UNTOUCHABLES, CINEMA PARADISO, and most importantly, THE MISSION.

While I have yet to see THE MISSION, I was at awe by the swiping musical composition. It's epic, atmospheric and quite spectacular. One thing of note was the final strokes of the piece, where the entire orchestra and choir reached its apex. It was a moment of wonder, visceral emotion, and the perfect fusion of the entire symphony.

After such a rousing finale, Morricone bid the audience adieu and closed his concert. But with a continuous stream of praise and applause from a standing ovation, he returned for three more encores! He returned to play climaxes from The Ecstasy of Gold and The Mission.

Being able to hear these ethereal pieces once again, was the equivalent of revisiting a favorite moment once more.

After the final musical strokes, Morricone and his orchestra took their final bows and officially bid Milano, adieu.

After the concert, with many attendees leaving the forum, I stepped out into the night to find many musicians from the orchestra exiting. I was lucky enough to meet a bass player who signed my ticket.

Wandering around the forum, I soon found myself within the back-stages of the auditorium. Many workers were dismantling the sound and stage equipment.

 
Weird to see such background work.

I again, returned outside and began heading back to my hotel, when I was stopped by a group of attendees. It seemed one of them was a player in the orchestra and they were all trying to find directions to their hotel. Struggling with my Italian and with them using the little English they knew, we used my iPhone to locate the hotel. Oh the wonders of the iPhone!

After everything seemed in order for them, I asked the musician how it was like working with Morricone. He explained, "We talk and it's very nice. He can be funny on some days we practice, but some days he can be very angry. It depends." I also asked how long they have been rehearsing for this concert. He replied, "We are touring throughout the year, and we practice very much."

When I asked if he could sign my ticket, he responded with a "thank you," and enthusiastically signed it. With many thanks exchanged, we bid each other goodbye and I continued on.

As I strolled back to my hotel, thoughts flooded my mind with what I had just experienced. One of finest, most consistent, and my personal favorite composer had just performed before me. Morricone is a quite old and there are not going to be many opportunities to experience the maestro perform his musical magic. The fact that I was actually able to witness such a rare spectacle is a humbling, thankful, and surreal thought for me. I don't think I'll be able to fully grasp what I witnessed that day.

Top 10 experiences of all time? Maybe, just maybe...

The Venetian Affiar - Part 2

As Sunday dawned, I knew I couldn't pass up making a pilgrimage to the classic Caffe Florian without leaving.

First thing in the morning, I ventured back to Piazza San Marco in search for Caffe Florian.

Upon charting the iconic establishment, I enjoyed an exquisite breakfast in the Caffe that has played host to such world-class figures as Dickens, Keats, and Shelley.

I felt classical atmosphere while in the Caffe. The inspiration that instigated such literary giants than, was enveloping me as I spent time my time there.

After such an inspiration breakfast (odd combination of words), I decided to visit the Arsenal Shipyard of Venice.

Due to the Italian Navy now holding base within the Shipyard, it is off-limits to visitors. Regardless, viewing the Shipyard from the entrance was quite a sight.

Considering the sea-fearing nature Venice held during the height its power, observing their sea headquarters was quite surreal.

While exploring the deep alleys, I began to notice many runners pacing up and down the narrow streets. It seemed as if some marathon was in session.

It turned out a race HUGE competition/hunting game was taking place throughout Venice.

Continuing forward, I visited other iconic sights. One being the church of Maria dei Miracoli.

The other, Madonna dell'Orto.

After charting these sights, I traveled towards the Ghetto of Venice.

It was in the world's first ghetto, where the Jews were quarantined by the Venetians due to racial and political turmoil. Today, the area still holds a strong Jewish community, as well as a decorated museum.

This area in Venice was also immortalized in Shakespeare's Merchant of Venice, where the Venetian Ghetto played as central locale. Another Shakespearean play, Othello, also took place in Venice. The question lies, did Shakespeare ever visit Venice?

After wandering through more of the utterly sublime design of the Venetian city, I found myself back at the train station, waiting to board the next train home.

Venice is a sight of wonder and distinction. While many cities adapt to the times, Venice has remained true to its roots. This can be seen in its design, architecture, and elemental essence. The city is a national treasure for Italy and just another reason why Italy is one of the deepest countries the world has ever seen.

Oh and one more thing, nothing beats listening to the Merchant of Venice Soundtrack while exploring the wonders of the Venetian affair:

The Venetian Affiar - Part 1

Traveling to one of the most iconic cities in the world is something you can't really prepare for. While other cities may have unique traits, no city is as more recognizable than Venice.

Formed from numerous lagoon islands, Venice is one of the most visited cities in the world. Traveling there for the weekend would be an experience I'd unlikely forget.

Venice is well connected train-wise, so I boarded the first train to Venice bright and early on November, Saturday the 13th. As I left Tuscany and entered the Veneto region, I could easily sense the change in scenery.

As we pulled into "The Canal City," land soon disappeared with just water as far as the eye could see. Oh, and the temperature dropped horribly too.

Much of the first part of Assassin's Creed II takes place in Venice, allowing me to complete more of my on-going secondary mission.

Escaping the train station, I crossed over the first bridge and soon found myself deep in the forbidden alleys of Venice. Transversing across numerous canals, while observing gondolas swimming through the rivers was a spectacularly celestial experience.

I first headed to the Basilica di Santa Maria Gloriosa dei Frari. This famous Basilica holds the classic Titian painting, The Assumption, as well as burial monuments for such prominent figures as Monteverdi.

Unfortunately, no photos were allowed within the church.

As I stepped into the church, I was genuinely impressed with the enormous monuments on display for the various Doges and such. They held symbolism, scale, and enormous depth.

Turning to my left, the world famous Assumption by Titian captured my attention fully.

This powerful work is an incredible piece that brilliantly showcases Titian amazing depth for lighting and movement in the dimensions of a vertical slice. A true masterwork of Venetian art.

After experiencing Santa Maria Gloriosa, a key location in AC II, I ventured forth, deeper through the canals.

I also transversed across the celebrated Rialto Bridge.

Further inward, I found myself approaching the most famous area in all of Venice, Piazza San Marco.

This landmark site has seen some of the most influential people in history, with even Napoleon claiming it as the, "drawing room of Europe."

Right in the middle is the soaring St.Mark's Campanile.

The original collapsed in the 1902, with a replica built soon after. With the construction of the new bell-tower, they installed an elevator, allowing visitors to ascend to the very heights of the towering Campanile.

It was something I couldn't pass up.

The view from atop was a roaring sight, full of Venetian wonder.

You could view the tiny canals puzzle their way through the narrow houses, with monumental sights making a colossal mark on the city's grand vista.

After experiencing Venice from its highest point, I returned to 'peasant level' and ventured into the unmissable St.Mark Basilica.

This glorious basilica houses the remains of Saint Mark, smuggled out of Alexandria in 828. Yes, a very long time ago.

These frescoes tell the epic story in illustrative form.

Due to Venice's complex relationship with the Byzantine Empire over time, the design of the basilica was heavily influenced by the Byzantine architecture.

As you step into the interior, the entire atmosphere is quite unique to any church generally found in Italy. Much gold is sprinkled throughout the church, with dim lighting being the only source of light. Much of the mosaics and paintings on display are also heavily inspired by Byzantine art.

On the second floor, four bronze horses stand astutely in the corner.

These four statues have been on quite a journey.

These horses were taken from Constantinople, after the Venetians sacked the city in 1204. They were placed atop the basilica for many years, until Napoleon arrived in Venice during 1797. Upon seeing the colossal statues he ordered them removed and sent to Paris, where he put them on grand display. It was returned to Venetians in 1815, in which they were immediately placed it inside, away from liable damage or mistreatment.

Pretty cool...

I stepped forth onto the balcony and observed the sights.

The two pillars, one representing the Lion of Venice, was the site where criminals would be put to death. The space in the middle was where the criminals would be beheaded or hanged while taking in the view of the tranquil sea one last time before death. It was also a signaling point for travelers that they had arrived to Venetian shores.

With day-light saving's now robbing me of a full hour of light, I had to end my first day in Lagoon city.

After experiencing the iconic sights of the Venetian landscape, tomorrow would entail traveling to the far less popular, but just as fascinating locales.
 
Venice, till tomorrow, I bid thee adieu...